Monday, 21 September 2015

Hiking with the National Geographic Society

Well, here we are at the summit of Provence after a week of hiking along its trails...





But it all started in Avignon, above the Pope's Palace: a welcome meeting and apéro with Charlotte, my co-guide.





Our first hike took us to the village of Châteauneuf du Pape, the king of Rhône Valley wines





Our picnic lunch in Châteauneuf du Pape, including a glass of 2005 Mont Redon for moi...





Strolling along the farming tracks between the parcels of vines:





We then headed for the town of Vaison la Romaine, our hotel in the medieval centre. Below we enter through the old village gates:





Charlotte mapping out our route to visit the Tuesday morning market in Vaison:






An evening stroll to the castle ruins set atop the medieval town:  






On Tuesday morning we had a special morning with a wine maker in the tiny village of Suzette...





...learning about the different varietals...





...how to taste them...





... pressing the bunches to extract the juices...





...requiring some help...





...and collecting the sweet nectar...





...followed by a gourmet Provençal picnic of course!





To work off our picnic we hiked up to the local summit -- Saint Amand -- where the views reach across the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range and the Rhône Valley:




In the evening, in our hotel's garden, we enjoyed a special wine & cheese evening complete with the cheeses of Josiane Déal's award winning cheese shop:












A view from our garden, Vaison's imposing belfry in the foreground:





Wednesday's walk took us to the picturesque village of Gordes, with its labyrinth of cobbled streets:





After which the two guides had a bit of a rest in the van:





In the evening we settled into our hotel in Lourmarin: le Mas de Guilles...






...complete with a champagne apéritif:





On Thursday morning the skies opened up, and rather than hiking in the rain we visited a candied fruit factory, where a 5th generation candy maker is still making candied fruit using traditional methods:





That's right: an entire candied cantaloupe melon, which didn't last long during our next picnic:





by the end of the morning the skies began to clear, and we headed to the village of Lacoste for a visit:





Above the village of Lacoste:





A view of the village of Bonnieux, from Lacoste:





In the afternoon we went to the cedar forest at the crest of the Luberon, where the view to the south extended to the Mediterranean Sea:





On Thursday evening we had a tour of Paula Marty's herb farm outside the village of Lourmarin:





savoury (one of the herbs of Provence):





Ralph:





We enjoyed a home-cooked meal at Paula's, made with the very herbs from her garden:





more Ralph:





On Friday morning we visited the 3000 year-old Buoux fort, hidden in the heart of the Luberon mountains. The old rock graves aren't big enough for 6'2" Canadians:





Charlotte atop the fort:





Ralph yet again, trying to hide in the 2000 year-old Roman grain silos:






At the very top of the fort, with sheer cliffs on all sides:




Exiting via the secret staircase: the oldest par of the fort.






In the afternoon we visited the village of Roussillon and its famed ocher mines:











On Saturday morning, leaving from our new base in Saint Rémy de Provence, we head to the top of the Alpilles range for stunning panoramas...











... and a surprise lunch at Lolo's farm:












A game of pétanque in the evening:
















... and choosing our desserts at dinner. Yum. 




On Sunday we headed to Mont Ventoux to conquer Provence's highest mountain:






Heading up the scree towards the summit:






Made it! Thanks to Ralph, Sandy, Betsy, Russ, Scott, Gail, Tad, Beth, Kurt, Peggy, Chris, Mary, Rick, Fabio & Vivian for a fabulous week! 


And a big thanks to Charlotte, who makes co-guiding fun. And easy.

Thursday, 13 August 2015

Dentelles de Montmirail

A picture taken during my reconnaissance walk yesterday, gearing up to lead a National Geographic hiking tour in September.  The mountain range is called the Dentelles de Montmirail, a set of chiseled limestone teeth that sits defiantly above the Rhône Valley. The famed vineyards of Gigondas sit at the foot of these mountains, while the whole lot is an absolute playground paradise of walking and hiking trails. My picture was taken from Saint Amand peak, the highest point in the range, though easily accessible even for novice hikers.  



National Geographic's Provence Hiking Tour

Monday, 27 July 2015

Walk Inn's inaugural Lavender Tour

I've just returned from guiding Walk Inn's inaugural Lavender Tour, full of fond memories and beautiful panoramas -- such as the one below -- a picture taken atop the plateaus near the village of Lagarde d'Apt.  






It all started with a walk and a picnic in the village of Châtreauneuf du Pape, the uncontested king of the Rhône Valley wines. 





But we quickly headed out of the Rhône valley (it was nearly 40°C) and atop the plateaus, draped in lavender.  




Day 2 was filled with ochre sands, starting with a walk around the village of Rustrel, in was is called the "Colorado Provençal".





And then to explore a small fraction of the 40km of tunnels dug into the hillsides near Gargas.









In the evening we enjoyed dinner in the village of Roussillon...




... its homes painted with the colourful sands from the nearby quarry.




On Day 3, while Charlotte led most of the group on a walk from Bonnieux to Lacoste, I strolled through the cedar forest with Geoff and Ruth. Geoff turns 89 years old next month while Ruth is 90 years-young.




We all met in the sadistic village of Lacoste for lunch...




...before visiting a candied-fruit confectioner in the valley.





On Day 4 we climbed up to the Claparèdes plateau above the village of Apt to get a hands-on lesson in lavender harvesting in the traditional method.




And of course the group picture in the lavender fields!




In the 2015 batch of distilled essential oil of pure lavender, you'll notice the ever-slight aroma of "mountain guide".




After our visit at Mr. Agnel's farm we headed east towards our next place of stay, in the town of Forcalquier. On the way we stopped at sunflower field for some pics:




A pre-dinner stroll to the chapel that sits high above the town of Forcalquier:




Geoff and Charlotte in deep conversation...




... while Ruth's conversation with Billy was slightly limited at Thierry Yerneaux's goat farm, set in the heart of the countryside near the village of Saint Michel l'Observatoire.





Here's Thierry and his award-winning goat's cheeses, which were a centerpiece in our picnic lunch.









Ruth and Geoff arriving for dinner in Forcalquier.




mother and daughter working together at the Cuisine des 2 Anges restaurant in Forcalquier.




Forcalquier by night.




Our final walk took us up to the high plateaus, where a sea of lavender fields extends into the horizon.




And just in time to take part in the harvest:




 Lunch at the Bistrot de Lagarde, complete with a Michelin star.




And of final evening at our hotel in Forcalquier, complete with a game of Pétanque...





EPILOGUE:

Mary, Claudia and Mark stayed on for two extra walks...





 the first of which leading to Sénanque Abbey just outside the village of Gordes...




In the evening we settled into the Chalet Liotard on the upper slopes of Mont Ventoux. Claudia and Mark are both doctors, and so baby Camille was in good hands. In the picture below Mark is displaying his best this-little-piggy technique.






Mary and Olivia in highlighted by the setting sun...






... which is particularly stunning at 1400m in altitude.





In the morning we set off to conquer the summit of Mont Ventoux, the hard way: via a succession of rock-slide formations along the northern slopes.





But can you beat these views?




We passed some wild lavender along the way. After all, it is a mountain plant!




Reaching the ridge and climbing up towards the summit:




The emblem of Mont Ventoux: the Greenland Poppy.




The final stretch along to the very top...





...with a bubbly celebration:




Thanks for a great week!!!

Saturday, 4 July 2015

Mont Ventoux, conquered

 An ascent of Mont Ventoux with my brother from Bedoin. I broke my personal record, finishing the climb in 2 hours, 10 minutes. My brother beat me by 11 minutes, the little %$#! ...