Monday 16 May 2016

A Week with National Geographic along the trails of Provence

Here we are: all 16 of us, giddy after a gourmet picnic lunch (with wine!) overlooking the vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône. But let's head back to the start of the week.




We met in Avignon, city of the Popes, and had a welcome meeting in the gardens atop the Papal Palace, and overlooking the region's various mountain ranges.
The week got off to a good start with a great meal: pictured below is my cold pea soup.




Our first walk on Monday led us through the vines of Châteauneuf du Pape, the region's most coveted wine-making village, and straight to Château La Nerthe. It's the village's oldest wine estate, with cellars dating from the 16th century.





And of course a wine-tasting:










Whilst tasting some of the estate's vintages, Charlotte was busy setting the (picnic) table under a stand of pine trees.

















With our bellies full of spelt salad and veins flowing with rosé, we left the vines behind and made our way to Vaison la Romaine. We were met by Janet Henderson, lawyer by trade but historian by passion, who helped us understand the rich and complex history of Provence in a guided tour of town.










Christianity, literally built upon the ruins of the Roman Empire:










Heading to our hotel in Vaison la Romaine, nestled in the medieval part of town.




dangerous plants in Vaison:




a less than dangerous guide:





On Tuesday we headed back into the vines, walking up to the storybook village of Séguret:


































where we settled into our picnic spot and admired the view:












We were even serenaded by Dee, a professional folk singer, who would often break out in song in the minibus (I was jealous that she was in Charlotte's minibus, not mine...)





In the evening the plan was to head to the summit of Mont Ventoux to watch the sun set over Provence, from its highest vantage point. But as can be seen from the photo below, the clouds and rains enveloped the upper slopes.





But not all was lost.





We stayed on the mountain to enjoy some hearty chalet fare...










...and were treated to a soupçon of sunset through the clouds from the Chalet Liotard




returning to Vaison along the old cobbled streets...





The following day we headed southbound to the Luberon mountains, where my camera slipped out of my pocket and onto the floor of the minibus, so no pictures...
the walk from Bonnieux to Lacoste was scenic though, and we managed, somehow, to avoid the rains (it rained heavily early in the morning and then as soon as we stopped for lunch).

After our walk we settled into our hotel just outside the village of Lourmarin.




In the early evening we strolled though Paula Party's herb farm and learned some pretty savory stories...





The next day we began our hike in the perched village of Gordes, its golden-stone homes built dizzyingly above the Calavon valley:



















if you've ever wondered what it was like to stroll across a carpet of thyme:




or lavender:



















Our hike led us to the 12th century Cistercian Abbaye de Sénanque...




... where we had a private tour of the abbey














A short detour to the village of Roussillon: 














On Friday we started our hike in the heart of the Luberon mountains, from the Auberge des Seguins...




... and up to the lost village of Sivergues (we found it).




We returned to Les Seguins via the Aiguebrun river and its lush forests...




... where we had birthday celebration for Frank.









It was raining in the afternoon, so we decided to move indoors -- or rather underground -- to visit a rock-quarry-turned-light-and-picture-show. This year's theme is Chagall. The experience was magical.








Breakfast in Saint Rémy at the Gounod hotel:




On Saturday we began our hike at the foot of the Alpilles mountains, where the olive groves meet the jagged limestone slopes.




As a reward, some chocolat once we reached the crest:





...and some breathtaking views from the Rocher des deux Trous.




At the summit!




On the way down to the valley, passing some companula flowers:









going to work with Dad for the first time:






After a brisk morning walk we were treated to lunch at Lolo's.
Here he is -- Lolo himself -- preparing his famous olive omelette:





We did not eat foie gras:




Our final hike on Sunday, atop the crest of the Alpilles:









...and our last picnic (not easy in strong Mistral winds!)









All good things come to and end: back to Avignon...





... for a game of pétanque:









... and a farewell dinner:



Thanks to a wonderful group for a great week along the trails, and a special thanks to my partner in crime -- Charlotte -- who makes guiding both fun and easy.