Bonnieux

 I'm still on my Roadbook-updating mission, yesterday in and around the village of Bonnieux in the Luberon. The skies were blue, the sunshine warm despite a crisp winter's breeze. Bliss for walking.

Self-guided Luberon walk

Lavender fields in the winter

Bonnieux, lit by the afternoon sun:

boar hunting along the trails...

stone architecture in Bonnieux:

Hiking between Malaucène and Vaison la Romaine

Why don't more travellers come hike in Provence in the winter? There are some distinct advantages:

1) perfect weather for walking, albeit a bit crisp -- but in my books 15°C beats 30°C.
2) extraordinary light for picture taking, and hardly ever any rain
3) no one on the trails but you - a guaranteed authentic experience

All of this was true for me yesterday, updating our Roadbook from the village of Malaucène to Vaison la Romaine.  It's the last leg of our self-guided tour that circumnavigates the Dentelles de Montmirail, a chain of jagged limestone teeth set above the Rhône valley.

My long hike (about 20km) actually began with a bike ride, as most of my updating missions do, placing a car at one end and a bike at the other. Extra exercise. And so by the time I began my walk in Malaucène I had already worked up a sweat...




Climbing into the hills, and looking towards the Rhône Valley.

Climbing on the southern slopes, bathed in the light, carpeted by a brush of aromatic herbs such as thyme and winter savoury, their perfumes intensified by the ever-present Provençal sun.

My lunch break, looking eastward towards the peak of Mont Ventoux, the summit under cloud cover:

Arriving in Vaison la Romaine at the end of the walk:

the ruins of the feudal castle set atop the medieval village of Vaison:

Come and see for yourselves!
Self-guided walking -- under the Silhouette of Mont Ventoux

Beaumes de Venise to Le Barroux

On a mission to update our Roadbook for our self-guided walking tour:
Under the Silhouette of Mont Ventoux

The morning was a cold one, as it has been for the past week, with frost on the ground. By the end of the day I'd wind up in a t-shirt though, which is why I love walking in Provence at this time of year.

A short but steep climb took me atop the Plateau de Courens, a hill above the village of Beaumes de Venise, with wide-sweeping views of the plains.

The first inhabitants of the village lived atop this hill. And below is its primitive 6th century St. Hilaire church, now being restored by a group of volunteers. I spoke at length with the president of the restoration committee, pictured below. He and his wife, well into their 70s, were busy taking out weeds and enjoying a very pleasant day in the sun. He spoke to me with great passion about the peace and quiet of the place, and why his work is a labour of love -- which of course reminded me of the privilege I have to spend many a day walking along the quiet trails.  As a paid job.

Here is the church seen from farther along the plateau:

Heading eastward, the famed silhouette of Mont Ventoux in view:

Along the quiet paths:

Reaching my destination, with the afternoon sun highlighting the perched village of Le Barroux and its renaissance castle (one of the few intact in Provence).