The vineyards are framed by a set of jagged limestone formations called the Dentelles: our playground for the next two days of walking.
Armed with a good group of walkers, I change plans for the first day's walk: instead of strolling along farming tracks we head up to the crests of the Dentelles, atop which John stands proudly in the photo below:
But we're not alone atop the crests: it's the middle of the hunting season, and the wild boar population has been on the rise. We pass an unusually-sociable hunter -- who spoke a little English -- explaining that the boar (and 20 wild mountain goats) have been destroying the vineyards. The day's action hadn't started yet...
But we would return to our hotel Les Florets that afternoon to find a present left by that same hunter: a Polaroid picture of their day's hunt.
Back on the trails, passing an arbutus (strawberry) tree:
Back at Les Florets, recounting the day's adventures...
...and eating extremely well!
The following morning we head out through the vines, under light rainfall, the only rain we'd see all week. The grape harvest is three weeks late, and we're lucky enough to be there during the harvest.
Meet my friend Grenache:
And my other friend Verdale (the local olive variety -- my favourite) :
After a short transfer to the Luberon mountains, we resume our walk in the village of Buoux (rhymes with Pukes). We quickly reach a cliff-edge above our accommodation: the Auberge des Seguins. No ropes are necessary...
... we find a centuries-old mule track leading is down in gentle zigzags to heaven in Provence:
Claudia in her stone-fortress-of-a-room:
On Wednesday we leave Les Seguins by foot, follow the lush Aiguebrun River valley, and then climb to the village of Sivergues, hidden in the heart of the Luberon. We're all present in the picture below. From left: John, Susan, Claudia, Mary, Patty, and moi-même.
...and a golden retriever very interested in the happenings of our snack break (he'd get a big chuck of our chèvre)
Above the village of Sivergues a rocky track climbs through the garrigue vegetation...
...including wild lavender:
And we reach the top, some 500 meters above the Aiguebrun Valley, with John leading the charge up the rounded, grassy hill.
We made it !
A fairly rare occurence from the crest of the Luberon -- at least in my experience -- we get a good look at the Mediterranean Sea to the south:
Our day isn't over quite yet. We visit the 3000 year-old Buoux fort, perched dizzyingly above the Aiguebrun valley...
...and descend the secret steps back down:
Natural limestone formations of the Aiguebrun valley. Don't stand there too long, Mary:
On Thursday we leave Les Seguins once more by foot, heading back up to the crests of the Luberon, trading the cool and shaded valley for the sun-drenched south face. We take a long and well-deserved break:
We finish our walk in the village of Lourmarin, now on the southern slopes of the Luberon:
A short transfer takes us to Saint Rémy de Provence and the Alpilles mountains, the setting for our last two days of walking. Here Mary and John are ahead of me on their way to a rounded summit...
...where the views are far-reaching:
A regional specialty: Les Olives Cassées des Baux: green olives marinated with fennel:
On Saturday, our last walk takes us back into the heart of the Alpilles mountains...
...and along the ridgeline, though landscapes of aromatic herbs and Mediterranean shrub, and of course with outstanding views:
The last piquenique:
After our last walk we transfer to Arles for a final night together. Below we approach the coliseum:
Arles' coliseum:
Our last meal in Arles. After travelling close to halfway around the world, leaving the far reaches of Alaska for sunny Provence, fate confronts John with photographs of his home. By day 2 John had already convinced everyone in the group to visit his Port Alsworth Alaska, a place so isolated that you need a plane or boat to reach it. And though the photographs in the restaurant in Arles depict an inhospitable coldness about Alaska, it's more than offset by the warmth of the words John uses to describe home. Even more (dare I say) than my love of Provence?
A very sincere and warm thank you to Mary, Patty, Claudia, Susan, and John for making me feel at home and very happy during our week's holiday. A bientôt I hope!
