La Côte Bleue

 Yesterday was another reconnaissance day for our new Calanques de Marseille and Cassis self-guided walking holiday. I walked along the "Côte Bleue", the coastline just to the west of Marseille. The rocky paths  are carved above the waters, hovering above imposing limestone cliffs, and around tortuous rock formations.  

The walk began in the fishing port of Niolon, a small community of modest homes and picturesque little streets, far from the glitz of most Mediterranean towns.

Through the arch of the railway bridge. A scenic train line heads west of Marseille, along the Côte Bleue, stopping at authentic fisherman's villages along the way. Our guests will be staying in the heart of Marseille, and will use the train to reach the beginning of the walk in Niolon; from here the walk heads westward along the coast, and to the next train station.  

The scenic Calanque de l'Erevine, about halfway through the walk, and a great swimming opportunity (a bit cold though in mid-December!).

Reaching the small port community of Méjean, this well-known restaurant makes for a great lunch break.

Beyond Méjean the path becomes more well-trodden, complete with steps carved into the coastline and wooden barriers along the way.

The landscapes too become much different, the pure white limestone giving way to ochre-laced rock formations.

Just a reminder that it's a nude beach...

Les Iles du Frioul

 Yesterday, as part of my reconnaissance work for our new Calanques holiday, I found myself in Marseille. The hotel we've chosen is the one in the photo below -- Le Bellevue -- sitting on a prime piece of harbour real estate... As advertised by the hotel name, the hotel rooms have a beautiful view indeed.  

But my day wasn't spent in Marseille itself, but rather on a set of small islands only 2 nautical miles off the coast: the Frioul islands. This will be the setting for the first walk of the self-guided holiday.

The islands are almost haunting: desert landscapes of bare limestone, with the very few plants that can withstand the parched, salty, and windswept conditions. In fact the only tree I saw (are there others on the island?) was a pine tree, set as a sprawling bush and not higher than 1 meter, making its way horizontally along the ground.

And the sets of dilapidated forts and buildings on the island create the ambiance of a warzone. It was in fact a warzone.  Bombed by the allies at the end of WWII as Marseille was being liberated, the "Hopital Caroline" -- once a highly advanced hospital for treating contagious disease -- is in shambles, and soon to be renovated.  

Peering through a stone gate, the famed Château d'If is framed. Château d'If is set on an island as well, slightly closer to the coastline. The island harbouring the castle does not have a port, just a small quay allowing for passengers to disembark. Yesterday the seas were rough, and there were no stops for the Château d'If...

The port of the Frioul islands has several restaurants to choose from, and here's my grilled tuna steak from yesterday.

The two islands, both only 2.5km long, are separated by the dyke seen below. The village itself seems like a cheap set of lego blocks set in various shades of orange and beige, while the islands' buildings, all in various states of disrepair and with no discernable rules of architecture, are lined in some places with military fences, and off limits.  

But that takes nothing away from the majesty of its coastline, hidden coves, and views of the Mediterranean at large.