I decided to take an overnight ferry from Marseille, taking 14 hours to reach the port town of Porto Vecchio, south-east Corsica. Below is the "vieux port" of Marseille as the ferry departed.
I knew that Corsicans weren't much for rules and regulations, even less so than the French. But boat crew members drinking beer, smoking, and checking cell phone messages at the same time?
So excited to reach the island, I stubbed my toe into the curb of the road, this even before starting my first hike. A sign of things to come? Back to the mainland, two weeks later, I would stub the same toe in Nice on a similar curbside smash, opening the toe in a different place but with an equal result.
The famous GR20 trail, starting in the town of Conca. The trail is amply marked with these red and white waymarks, no map is ever needed.
The famous GR20 trail, starting in the town of Conca. The trail is amply marked with these red and white waymarks, no map is ever needed.
On the first day of hiking I passed dozens of lizards, happily sunning themselves on the rocky trail. Why have I decided to spend all this time walking, when I too could be happily sunning myself on a rock somewhere?
When I passed this ominous object I wasn't quite sure what to make of it, nor of its owner's fate
Most of the terrain on the GR20 path is as seen below, skipping from one boulder to the next on a rocky path. Though it is considered the most beautiful hiking trail in Europe (and its most difficult), it is certainly not pleasant underfoot.
But the difficult path is compensated by majestic views on the high passes and ridges. Here in southern Corsica the rocks are granite-based (schist) and red in colour, while in the north the mountains are composed of green, volcanic rock.
Heading on a slope with northern exposure, you often find yourself in these Lariccio Pine forests, blanketed by ferns:
When I passed this ominous object I wasn't quite sure what to make of it, nor of its owner's fate
Most of the terrain on the GR20 path is as seen below, skipping from one boulder to the next on a rocky path. Though it is considered the most beautiful hiking trail in Europe (and its most difficult), it is certainly not pleasant underfoot.
But the difficult path is compensated by majestic views on the high passes and ridges. Here in southern Corsica the rocks are granite-based (schist) and red in colour, while in the north the mountains are composed of green, volcanic rock.
Heading on a slope with northern exposure, you often find yourself in these Lariccio Pine forests, blanketed by ferns:
Taking off my boots to rest my feet after a long day's hike, a fly takes advantage of my recent wound...
The following pictures are from some of my favourite hikes on my trip...
The following pictures are from some of my favourite hikes on my trip...
AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
The Aiguilles de Bavella, in the South of Corsica, are a set of jagged, pencil sharp mountains that seem to soar from the sea. An optional path, off the GR20 route, takes you up and into the heart of these majestic mountains.
Here I am with the Aiguilles as a backdrop.
The Aiguilles de Bavella, in the South of Corsica, are a set of jagged, pencil sharp mountains that seem to soar from the sea. An optional path, off the GR20 route, takes you up and into the heart of these majestic mountains.
Here I am with the Aiguilles as a backdrop.
Views of the Mediterranean accompany you on most of your hikes on the island, whether near the coastline or high in the mountains, offering you the most dramatic of contrasts in the same view.
There is one passage of note in the Aiguilles, where a metallic chain leads you down a 15 meter boulder. The task looks more daunting in the picture than it is in reality: I saw hikers of all ages and abilities out on this day.
These "optional" routes are often marked with yellow waymarks, as seen below.
As would be my habit for most of my hikes on the island, I would find the best vantage spot, take out my Goretex jacket and fleece as a cushion, and sit and enjoy the scenery for a great length of time.
The following video was taken at the top of the Aiguilles range. The zoom-in at the end is to show the island of Sardinia, just south of Corsica, in view on this day.
Lake Nino
Lake Nino, on the GR20 route, is accessible as a day hike from the Col de Vergio pass. The hiking is relatively easy (by Corsican standards) and provides a glimpse of -- in my view -- the most spectacular landscape of the island. The path remains relatively flat for an hour, through pine forest on the slopes. This is a welcome treat to hikers completing the entire GR20 route, who do not get much respite from steep slopes and rocky paths.
A short climb leads to a ridge where the path continues its ascent atop mountain pastures:
Since I've lived in Provence snow has become somewhat of a novelty. I quickly jumped on this patch. Though well over 20°C, and into the month of June, the snow hadn't completely thawed on the upper slopes of the mountain. It had been a very snowy winter, and the thaw wasn't yet complete. This makes for some delicate passages on the GR20 route, which is why most hikers opt for July-September to complete the expedition.
The GR20 route attracts 25000 hikers per year, which leads to lucrative business opportunities on the island. Below horses and mules are carrying luggage from stage to stage for hikers, so that only daypacks are required. Several companies offer portage assistance.
On the shores of Lake Nino "wild" horses (though tamed by the passers-by) graze the bright green grasses:
There are so many elements that make Lake Nino such a magical place, an image out of a storybook: the grassy plateau, the crystal clear waters, the horses roaming freely, the snow-capped mountains in the background. I stayed here close to 2 hours, a nap interrupted by a horse that literally started to chomp on my shorts to demand some food.
Alpine pastures and Meditteranean sea in the same image: how strange and beautiful.
Lakes Mélo and Capitello: 
There is one passage of note in the Aiguilles, where a metallic chain leads you down a 15 meter boulder. The task looks more daunting in the picture than it is in reality: I saw hikers of all ages and abilities out on this day.
These "optional" routes are often marked with yellow waymarks, as seen below.
As would be my habit for most of my hikes on the island, I would find the best vantage spot, take out my Goretex jacket and fleece as a cushion, and sit and enjoy the scenery for a great length of time.
The following video was taken at the top of the Aiguilles range. The zoom-in at the end is to show the island of Sardinia, just south of Corsica, in view on this day.
Lake Nino
Lake Nino, on the GR20 route, is accessible as a day hike from the Col de Vergio pass. The hiking is relatively easy (by Corsican standards) and provides a glimpse of -- in my view -- the most spectacular landscape of the island. The path remains relatively flat for an hour, through pine forest on the slopes. This is a welcome treat to hikers completing the entire GR20 route, who do not get much respite from steep slopes and rocky paths.
A short climb leads to a ridge where the path continues its ascent atop mountain pastures:
Before long the jagged west coast of the island appears in view, the blues of the Mediterranean contrasting the greens of the hillsides:
Since I've lived in Provence snow has become somewhat of a novelty. I quickly jumped on this patch. Though well over 20°C, and into the month of June, the snow hadn't completely thawed on the upper slopes of the mountain. It had been a very snowy winter, and the thaw wasn't yet complete. This makes for some delicate passages on the GR20 route, which is why most hikers opt for July-September to complete the expedition.
The GR20 route attracts 25000 hikers per year, which leads to lucrative business opportunities on the island. Below horses and mules are carrying luggage from stage to stage for hikers, so that only daypacks are required. Several companies offer portage assistance.
On the shores of Lake Nino "wild" horses (though tamed by the passers-by) graze the bright green grasses:
There are so many elements that make Lake Nino such a magical place, an image out of a storybook: the grassy plateau, the crystal clear waters, the horses roaming freely, the snow-capped mountains in the background. I stayed here close to 2 hours, a nap interrupted by a horse that literally started to chomp on my shorts to demand some food.
Alpine pastures and Meditteranean sea in the same image: how strange and beautiful.
Lakes Mélo and Capitello:
Lakes Mélo and Capitello are accessible on a day hike, starting 30 minutes from the town of Corte, north-central Corsica. A drive up the magnificent Restonica gorge leads to the Bergeries de la Grotelle, start of the hike. This is a walk you need to start early. I was on the trails at 7:00am to avoid the heat and the crowds. The beginning of the hike climbs steadily, with views of the gorge behind you:
Lake Mélo is a small glacial lake at 1700m in altitude. It takes just over an hour to reach the lake (this photo was taken well above it). Most people enjoy the sights at the first lake and turn around.
An other hour's climb leads to the second lake: Capitello, the more majestic of the pair, its green cliffs diving into the waters.
To get an overall picture of the lake I would of had to climb a bit farther, n'est-ce pas? But not on this day. I was content to sit on the shores, in the shade, and contemplate the beautiful sight.
On the way down, the pools of the Restonica gorge:
Restonica Gorge:
I spent three nights at a campsite on the Restonica Gorge, just west of Corte, as a base to go on my hiking expeditions. It was so peaceful there that I spent a day just lounging around. The Gorge spans 15km and every inch of it is worth exploring, wading in its emerald pools on a hot day...
Here's my campsite, right by the waters. There's a great restaurant at the campground too!
The group of Italians beside me really knew how to set up a campsite: even a paper towel roll attached to a tree:
Me in the cool waters:
Me in the cool waters:
emerald pools...
Monte d'Oro
Here's a picture of Vizzavona's station. The hamlet counts only a handful of homes, including three quaint hotels/dorms for the steady flow of hikers who pass through. The plan for today was to climb from the village to Monte d'Oro, the peak shown by the arrow below (what was I thinking?).
But instead I continued onwards. Beyond the beechwood the path climbs up slabs of rock, making for a steep, relentless, and uneven ascent.
Before long you find yourself in a world of jagged cliffs, with views extending down into the valleys and up toward the snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Here a delicate passage across a névé required a bit of sure footing. After about 4 hours of climbing I sure didn't feel like sliding all the way down there!
Monte d'Oro
Here's a picture of Vizzavona's station. The hamlet counts only a handful of homes, including three quaint hotels/dorms for the steady flow of hikers who pass through. The plan for today was to climb from the village to Monte d'Oro, the peak shown by the arrow below (what was I thinking?).
Vizzavona has a beautiful beechwood, and a system of tracks running through them. Most day-hikers and families will come to walk through the forest, following the river and to the cascades, where you can sit by the pools of water. Which is what I should have done all day.
But instead I continued onwards. Beyond the beechwood the path climbs up slabs of rock, making for a steep, relentless, and uneven ascent.
Before long you find yourself in a world of jagged cliffs, with views extending down into the valleys and up toward the snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Here a delicate passage across a névé required a bit of sure footing. After about 4 hours of climbing I sure didn't feel like sliding all the way down there!
On the upper ridge, at 2100m, views open of Lac d'Oro below, still partially frozen.
Here's a 360° video-view from the upper ridge, at about 2100m in altitude. You'll notice the summit of Monte d'Oro still yet to climb, 200m above my current position.
A bouquet of forget-me-nots near the summit... I shall not forget you, wonderful hike...
Me at the very summit. From this vantage point both the west and the east coast of Corsica were visible, including the bay of Ajaccio (hometown of Napoleon)
My rabbinic beard, two days before being cut off...
My mangled toes after many kilometers and thousands of metres of altitude gain.
Corte:
Me at the very summit. From this vantage point both the west and the east coast of Corsica were visible, including the bay of Ajaccio (hometown of Napoleon)
My rabbinic beard, two days before being cut off...
My mangled toes after many kilometers and thousands of metres of altitude gain.
Corte:
After days of hiking, some cultural visits were necessary. I love the town of Corte, set in the north-centre. Nationalist centre of Corsica (yes, there's an independance movement), Corte has a very authentic feel, despite catering to large numbers of tourists.
Its delapidated homes and crumbling façades seem to blend awkwardly well with tourist shops, cafés and restaurants... 
Veering from the shops you can meander through a set of narrow, cobbled streets that seem timeless.
the Train
The train in Corsica is not just a means of travel but an experience in itself. Lovingly named "Micheline" by Corsicans, the train is as timeless as the villages. The railway line snakes its way through the hillsides on a majestic journey towards the coasts, and takes its passengers through the heart of the Corsican countryside, along routes too narrow and vertiginous for the roads. Many tourists take the train (like I did this day) for the experience itself.
Veering from the shops you can meander through a set of narrow, cobbled streets that seem timeless.
the church bell tower:
remnants of a former bakery...
the Train
The train in Corsica is not just a means of travel but an experience in itself. Lovingly named "Micheline" by Corsicans, the train is as timeless as the villages. The railway line snakes its way through the hillsides on a majestic journey towards the coasts, and takes its passengers through the heart of the Corsican countryside, along routes too narrow and vertiginous for the roads. Many tourists take the train (like I did this day) for the experience itself.
The railway line and its trains are currently being renewed, but I was lucky enough to get on one of the old trains still in use. Loud, bumpy, cramped, and devoid of air conditioning, what else could you want in a train?
The instrument panel: does any of this still work?
The instrument panel: does any of this still work?
Some of the shots along the way:
Some shots of my animal friends along the way :
she stuck her head in my backpack. I enjoyed her assertiveness, and shared some fruitcake with her:
The calves at Lake Nino were very curious too:
This one charged me on the hiking trail after I took her picture. I got out of the way just in time.
Stopping on the side of the road to enjoy the view, I was accosted by a group of pigs demanding some of my carrots (which I shared). Pigs also roam freely on the island. Great charcuterie...
On the side of the road... cattle are not held in enclosures on the island. They roam freely on the hillsides and often end up on roads.
This one charged me on the hiking trail after I took her picture. I got out of the way just in time.
Stopping on the side of the road to enjoy the view, I was accosted by a group of pigs demanding some of my carrots (which I shared). Pigs also roam freely on the island. Great charcuterie...
Leaving via the port of Calvi
The fortified town of Calvi in the north of the island.
the port of Calvi, a real tourist town... (great beaches)
The snow-capped mountains loom in the distance. Here you can see Monte Cinto, the mountain's highest peak (2700m) over Calvi as my ferry leaves for Nice. See you soon Corsica!!!!!
Resting my tired feet on the ferry to Nice, a 5-hour journey...
Resting my tired feet on the ferry to Nice, a 5-hour journey...
