Friday, 16 August 2013

Vercors: high plateaus and magical forests


This past week I was lucky enough to spend three days hiking in the Vercors mountains, just north of Provence. We are planning on launching a new self-guided walking holiday there for 2014.

Anne-Charlotte and I began our reconnaissance below the Vercors mountain range in the tiny village of Les Nonières, timeless.
We plan on ending the self-guided walking trip here:




The Vercors mountains seen from below: a gigantic limestone plateau culmintating at 2340m. We'd reach the top two days later...




Atop the plateau our first stop was Villard de Lans. We scouted the local hotels and restaurants, enjoying the ambiance of this mountain village, set at 1000m in altitude. Our self-guided walking holiday will most likely spend the first two nights here.




Anne-Charlotte and I found a gem of a B&B in the tiny village of Saint Martin, the second stop for this holiday:




The view from their gardens, as seen experienced by Anne-Charlotte, who didn't feel much like leaving...




But enoough of visiting hotels: we came to scout the hikes too. Leaving Villard de Lans the hiking trails climb upwards to the high plateaus:




Anne-Charlotte spent much of the time in front, much more fit than I am...




Magical spruce forests:




On our second day of hiking we thought we'd be ambitious, both for ourselves and for our future walking guests: we tackled the very summit of the Vercors Mountains -- Le Grand Veymont -- the mountain seen in the background in the picture below. The walk begins through the open fields and forests of the protected natural reserve, an absolute paradise of open plateaus and cragged limestone formations.




After traversing the foothills the real fun begins, climbing up to the Pas de la Ville pass, set in the centre of the photo below:




And from the pass you now have a view eastward, of the entire chain of the Alps. The Vercors Mountains are far removed from the rest of the Alps, and as such offer spectacular vantage points over the entire chain.




Campanula flowers growing from the bare limestone:




The high plateaus of the Vercors mountains seen from the crest of the Grand Veymont: though the westward slopes are soft offer safe trails, the cliffs heading down to the east are jaw-dropping and leg-shaking.




The Grand Veymont is a playground for the ibex, a species that was reintroduced in the 80s:









Strong and agile, the limestone cliffs are where the ibex feel most at home:






As humans we tend to avoid the jagged cliffs -- at least I do. The safe walking trails are better.

In the photo below we are at the very summit of the Grand Veymont, with wisps of cloud rushing up from the valleys below (Anne-Charlotte, who's been up here many times, likened this to being above an erupting volcano).



Heading down from the summit:




Houseleeks in flower:





On the way down an ibex was blocking the walking path, with no intention to get up to let me pass.  They are naturally unfearful of humans, which led to their demise before being reintroduced...




Magestic.





We humans may not be as quick and agile as the ibex, but we're able to write walking notes:




Heading down from the summit, with the high plateaus of the Réserve Naturelle extending out into the horizon. As a guide Anne-Charlotte leads groups through the reserve, camping along the way.





Waymarking is not abundant throughout the reserve: it's the park's way of limiting the number of people entering the heart of the protected area.




One of the very few signs along the way:




After 7 hours of walking, the Grand Veymont now behind us:


Monday, 29 July 2013

Sainte Agnès & Gorbio

This past weekend I battled temperatures of about 35°C hiking between the villages of Sainte Agnès and Gorbio, tucked behind the Riviera town of Menton.

Our most popular self-guided walking tour this year passes through the village of Sainte Agnès, seen below.




Picturesque and authentic, we were looking to suggest an extra night's stay in the village, and so I scouted a loop walk starting and ending in Sainte Agnès.



Old granite and cobbled streets pass under archways, while a tight labyrinth of streets make their way up to the top of the village, from where you stand 800m above the sea, but only 3km as the crow flies: it's the highest coastline village (oxymoron?) in France. Sainte Agnès is also listed among the most beautiful villages in the country.




Wild lavender in bloom as I made my way along the trails.




bell-flower:




And somewhat unusual for the region, we have:

Tibetan prayer flags:


And a gorilla:





The town of Menton seen from the trails:




After about 2 hours of walking I reached the village of Gorbio, here framed by passion flower.




ssshhh: the old limestone village of Gorbio is far off the tourist radar, its two restaurants separated by a 300 year-old elm tree, and the rest of its streets soothingly shop-free and timeless.


Monday, 15 July 2013

Tour de France on Mont Ventoux

Provence is too often skipped over by the Tour de France, preferring the more prestigious Alps and Pyrenees. But when the Tour does come through Provence, it doesn't hesitate to include Mont Ventoux, listed as one of the toughest climbs in France. Some would argue the toughest, as Lance Armstrong did. From the base of the mountain to its summit, it's 21.8km of straight uphill at an average grade of 7.5%. In about an hour's time (in what took me close to three yesterday) the riders pass from Mediterranean shrubs to a lunar landscape above the treeline.

Yesterday's ride, from Givors to Mont Ventoux, spanned 242km, the last 21.8km of which was the ascension of Ventoux.

Below is the scene at the Chalet Reynard, 6km below the summit, some 6 hours before the arrival of the cyclists.




There were an estimated 400 000 people on the mountain: 100 times the population of the village of Bedoin. Every usable square foot beside the road -- on both sides -- was covered by tents, camper vans, people laying on air matresses or on the tarmac itself, official and less-official refreshment stands and boutiques, barbecue parties, punk hairdos, monokinis and flag bearers, people in costumes on or off their bikes (including several hot and stuffy full bear costumes), and the devil guy seen at every Tour de France stage for 20 years. I took the picture below just above the Chalet Reynard, showing camper vans set up like a long line of processionary caterpillars.




I'm the guy in the very fluorescent yellow jersey, here passing under the Flamme Rouge just before noon. You can't see my searing cramps here -- but they're there, forcing me to dismount twice. The summit was already cordoned off by this time and I was forced to turn around, but was perhaps happy to avoid the final kilometre at 10% grade. What took me close to 3 hours would later take Christopher Froome 59 minutes, after having already cycled 220km...  



With the whole mountain carpeted in one giant party, the ensuing 4-hour wait didn't seem long.

And at just past 4pm, just below the Chalet Reynard, it wasn't Froome who appeared to me first. Echos of Sylvain Chavanel attacking at the base of the mountain had sent the local crowd into false hopes and raucous (and somewhat drunken) singing of the Marseillaise. But Chavanel's vie for Bastille Day glory was short lived. Nairo Quintana had attacked and appeared out of the forest first. By the time I had finished taking the picture below Froome had also passed (in 2nd position) and I missed seeing him completely. And Quintana would soon see Froome pass him and race off to the summit alone.



It almost seemed like a time-trial afterwards, the peloton breaking into over 100 crumbs: cyclists appearing in different states of suffering, flying up the mountain as the first few did, struggling for those trying to lose as little time as possible, or chatting as did the sprinters unconcerned about saving seconds, just looking to make it to the summit before the hors délai.


Already circulating on the Internet are reports to discredit Froome's superhuman climb. Regardless, it was a great show.

Friday, 21 June 2013

Walk Inn's 10th anniversary camping trip...

 Here are some pictures from last weekend's camping trip near the village of Saillans, celebrating 10 years of Walk Inn Provence.